I must mention at the outset of this post that it was thanks to my dear friend Gaye that we actually found ourselves week-ending in Margate. An offer to stay at her spacious and homely holiday flat was snapped up, and booked on this site. Gaye's flat is in the world-famous (or at least it should be!) - Arlington House and despite its rather drab and imposing facade this 1960s high-rise block offers fantastic views over the town, with every room in the flat boasting a sea view ...
and gorgeous sunsets!
Margate has long been a pioneer of British seaside culture and Arlington House is set slap bang next to the site of the iconic Dreamland Fairground, immensely popular from the 1950s and throughout the next three decades until its sad decline in recent years. As part of a major arts regeneration programme there are plans for the site to be developed into a heritage theme park. So happily, Arlington House will indeed benefit from the renaissance already transforming the town. You can find details of Gaye's flat here.
We adore all things vintage and retro these days and with 1950s fashion being the look of the season, Margate is the
coolest place to be seen. It is SO very retro. However its origins as a resort go back even farther, to the 18th century when seabathing became very fashionable. Beautiful Georgian architecture stands proud in streets such as Hawley Square where once stood the famous
Bettison's Library which housed one of the largest collections of the finest journals of the era. The building is now a very chic B&B appropriately known as
The Reading Rooms.
It is widely believed that whilst convalescing in Margate from a mental breakdown TS Eliot wrote his famous poem
The Waste Land in the shelter at Nayland Rock - details
here, and the fantastic
Sinema Amnesia overlooking the sea close to the Turner Contemporary is inspired by the great poem.
The Turner Contemporary has given the town an incredible boost and is an amazing building full of natural light. Here is Rodin's
The Kiss, on loan from The Tate.
I was keen to see
She Lay Down Deep Beneath the Sea by 'local girl' Tracey Emin which is as thought-provoking as only her work can be! Emin's work is always intensely personal and here she draws from her own life experiences and emotional states with pieces including embroidery, drawing, monoprints, painting, neon, tapestry and sculpture. The artist spent her formative years in Margate and it seems fitting that her exhibition should be showcased at TC. The Gallery's namesake, artist
JMW Turner lived for a time on this very site, finding inspiration in the sparkling light and shimmering sunsets that are such a feature of the North Kent coast. Yes, sunglasses are most definitely required!
Just alongside the Turner Contemporary is The Harbour Arm, bathed in sunlight of course and totally windswept on this particular day, it's a charming community of artists' studios, restaurant and bar. I thoroughly recommend
BeBeached for a tasty snack.
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Margate Sands, as the name suggests, is a lovely sandy beach. With Dreamland close by, my visit brought to mind happy memories of childhood seaside holidays with our parents ... my sister and I with our buckets and spades ... mum and dad in their deckchairs soaking up the sun .... picnics on the beach. Bliss! Just along the coast at Broadstairs, picture below, is
Botany Bay - beautiful sand, rock pools and cliffs. Quite simply a treasure.
Margate Old Town is a warren of charming streets and central square, housing a distinctively eclectic mix of artists' studios, galleries, offbeat retro shops, bars and restaurants, all rubbing along happily with traditional seaside pubs. Bohemian and fun, there is something for everyone in marvelous Margate.
Shops I loved:
Turner Contemporary Shop
Quing
Blackbird
The Secret Wardrobe
Betty B's (sorry - no website)
Places to eat and drink:
The Lifeboat Pub
Rokka
The Greedy Cow
BeBeached
Turner Contemporary Cafe
THE place to stay!
Dreamland Lets
Well done for getting to the end of this very long post! Next time - a pictoral post on Whitstable.
In the meantime we are off on a short holiday to France tomorrow. See you in a week or two.
Have a great week and enjoy these wonderful early Autumn days!
Jeanne
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